After taking part in the Mezzalama on Saturday (a skimo race where Kilian finished second together with Marti Werner and Martin Anthamatten) there was no time to relax: on Sunday he boarded a plane en route to the Himalayas, where he expects to spend the next few weeks on two very different climbing projects. First stop: Cho Oyu During the first part of his trip Kilian Jornet will attempt to climb Cho Oyu (8,201m), the world’s sixth highest mountain. He will be accompanied by his companion Emelie Forsberg. Kilian and Emelie looked for a peak that would be reasonably accessible from base camp. After considering various options they chose this mountain which has a reputation as one of the least technically difficult in the Himalayan range. “It will be interesting to see how we feel as we will have to acclimatize very quickly. We’ve been preparing this expedition for weeks but we won’t know how our bodies will react until we get there. It will be an interesting experience and Emelie’s first 8,000m and I want to be there to accompany her. As for me, it will be good preparation for Everest because I’ll be better acclimatised when I get there,” Kilian says. The pair will be on Cho Oyu for two weeks before Kilian prepares himself for the second part of the trip. Everest, the remaining giant In mid-May Kilian will travel to Tíbet to reach the monastery at Rongbuk, at 5,000m, the starting point for the Everest expedition (8.848m). This time the team is even smaller and only the cameraman Sébastien Montaz-Rosset will accompany him. Kilian’s objective is to conquer the world’s highest mountain and complete his personal project, Summits of My Life. Over the past six years Kilian has travelled around the world setting climbing records on the world’s most iconic mountains. He began on Mont Blanc in 2012 and since then has climbed mountains in Europe (Mont Blanc and Cervino), North America (Denali) and South America (Aconcagua). Now, to complete the project, for the second time he will attempt the ascent of Everest after having to postpone the 2016 attempt due to bad weather conditions. The team planned to travel to the Himalayas in autumn but, unable to obtain permits, decided to bring it forward to spring. “This year will be different from 2016 as there will be more people in the base camp while last year we were alone. The reason for wanting to try it in August-September is the temperatures are a little warmer and there is less risk of freezing. In spite of everything, the knowledge we acquired last year will prove vital in this expedition,” Kilian explains. As they did last year, the Summits of My Life team will try to reach the summit of Everest via the north face. The north face is the least well known, as most commercial expeditions go via the south side. Kilian still doesn’t know what route he will take as it will depend on the weather conditions. The idea is to attempt it via either the Norton or the Hornbein corridors. During the first few days the team will establish the advanced base camp (ABC) at 6,300m. From there they will make several excursions to acclimatise and reconnoitre the terrain before heading down to the starting point. This is the basic principle of Summits of My Life: ascending from the last inhabited place and returning to it once the summit has been reached. On this occasion the point of departure will be the Rongbuk monastery at 5,000m. Kilian knows that on Everest the most important things to bear in mind are the altitude and the weather conditions: “There are many factors in play that will depend on how I feel at altitude and the prevailing conditions during the expedition. That’s where we will take the decisions, but knowing that we want to do it as we have always done - light and quick. There are people who think it’s madness but for me the mountain is a space where everyone should be free to do what they think they can do. I like to travel light so I can be quick. In this way, we spend less time at altitude and suffer less fatigue, although we are aware that it makes the expedition more risky. However, weighing everything up, this is the way we’ve chosen and that we will attempt again on Everest.” Kilian Jornet expects to spend a month on Everest in order to make the attempt before returning to Europe. Our Everest, a global campaign The expedition can be followed using the hashtag #OurEverest. The idea is to bring together the community of followers who have backed the project since the beginning and who have made the expedition to Everest possible. “We began this challenge together five years ago and with our values and our approach to the mountain we’ve got to this point. Although we don’t know what will happen, I’m clear about one thing: it’s not my Everest, but ours, everyone who has in one way or another contributed to making this project a reality,” says Kilian. Stay tuned for updates! You can learn more about the project at summitsofmylife.com

Emelie Forsberg is travelling to Cho Oyu together with Kilian Jornet. After considering various options the couple chose this mountain that has a reputation as one of the least technically difficult 8000-meter peaks in the Himalayan range and that is reasonably accessible from the base camp. Kilian will use Cho Oyu as valuable preparation for climbing Everest. He will be traveling directly to the highest mountain on Earth after Cho Oyu. Emelie, how are you feeling before attempting to climb your first 8000-meter peak? I´m super exited and so motivated to give my all. I know it´s not sure at all that I can reach the summit, but the adventure and the journey there will be very interesting. How did you prepare for this project? Did you train differently than you would otherwise at this time of the year? We did sleep in an altitude tent, and I was not fresh after that so I couldn’t train the same as I normally do. I tried to do that in December and I was so tired after hard trainings. So I did a little longer days instead which can be good for the summit attempt. What do you like about mountaineering? I think mountaineering is just the step after skiing and running, when we come to more technical terrain, that’s when the mountaineering starts! I like it because it´s like the continuation of skiing and running, we need to be able to climb mountains to get ourselves there. I like the focus I need and that it´s so much more I need to learn. Every time I get more comfortable in mountaineering there are higher levels to go, so it never ends! How do you like Tibet? Never been there. It will be a new experience. What’s the highest you have been so far? ”Only” 6600 meters! How do you adapt to altitude? It can be different from time to time, but I have never felt really bad in altitude. But over 7500m will be very different, I think. What will the biggest challenges be for you? The altitude for sure, and to be moving for over 20 hours. What are the conditions like on Cho Oyu currently? Normally in the beginning of May it´s pretty good conditions; not too icy, not too much snow, and pretty stable weather. What’s the goal of this project? For sure it would be a success if I can go to the summit, but everything is an experience that leads us somewhere.

Ueli Steck, our long-time friend and ambassador, died in a climbing accident in the Himalayas on April 30. Ueli was not just an exceptional athlete and explorer. His humble attitude and persistence to realize his dreams was an inspiration to many – us included. Ueli Steck, 4.10.1976–30.4.2017 We were privileged to be by Ueli’s side since 2005. We saw him grow from a speed climber in the Alps to one of the best mountaineers of his time and an exceptional endurance athlete. Ever since Ueli’s 2008 record-breaking solo speed ascent of the north face of the Eiger Ueli Steck was regarded as one of climbing’s most spectacular talents. In 2013 he was in the limelight after making an incredibly bold solo ascent of the south face of Annapurna (8,091 m) in 28 hours – a new record. The ascent won him the Piolet d’Or, one of climbing’s most prestigious awards. “I was at the limits of my physical and mental ability. To go to such limits changes your consciousness,” Ueli said after the expedition. Climbers regard it as one of the most significant climbs in the Himalayas in a generation. Ueli did not do things the traditional way. He wanted to climb light to be able to move fast. To him fast meant less time spent at altitude which increased safety. But Ueli was also a purist. “It’s out of the question for me to use bottled oxygen,” he said. “I either make the summit without it or I turn back, go home and train more.” And train he did. He was preparing for his climbs like an Olympic endurance athlete. Climbing was just one part of getting faster, being better. In fact, Ueli really fell in love with trail running and believed endurance training could be the best way for him to become even better as a mountaineer: the gains he could get by training climbing were marginal compared to the gains he could get by being in the best possible shape. When preparing for his Everest Lhotse Traverse Ueli travelled to Khumbu Valley for high-altitude training this February. He wanted to spend time and train in high altitude to be ready for his big Himalayan challenge this spring. And he was ready. We have never seen Ueli as confident and relaxed as he was before his travel to Everest in April. He felt that he was in the shape of his life and was really looking forward to the climbs in the highest mountains of the world. “Working with Ueli all these years has been an inspiration; his way to see the sport, his pure way to approach the mountains and his determination in his projects pushed also us to do things better. Our long talks were filled with energy and inspiration. We have not only lost an athlete, but a friend who will always be remembered,” says Joan Sola, sport and community manager at Suunto. It was in the mountains that Ueli felt most at home. To him the north face of Eiger was as casual as a trail in the local park is for us. That is where he felt most at home. But no matter what the route or the mountain, Steck’s inspiration remained the same. “It’s the challenge of moving on in life,” he says. “I always want to try something I have not done before.” And that attitude of moving forward, of making progress, is what inspired us the most in Ueli. He showed us all that dreams can come true with determination and hard work. Ueli, may your spirit forever guard others who live their dreams on the mountains. We will miss you – and your broad smile.

“I’m so happy to have made the summit again! Today I felt good although it was really windy so it was hard to move fast. I think summiting Everest twice in one week without oxygen opens up a new realm of possibilities in alpinism and I’m really happy to have done it,” Kilian said after returning to the mountain’s Advanced Base Camp. Jornet had already reached the summit on May 22, but stomach cramps had prevented him from completing his route as planned. Jornet reached the summit via the North Face of Everest on May 27 at 9pm. He had left the Advanced Base Camp at 6.400m at 2am. He climbed to the summit on the ‘normal’ route passing the three high altitude camps used by climbers attempting the world’s highest mountain, a climb which takes on average four days. The climb to the summit was slow but continuous. The wind was the main obstacle Jornet had to overcome, on an extremely windy Himalayan day. Weather conditions improved throughout the night in the latter part of the route and he returned to Advanced Base Camp 28 hours 30 minutes after leaving. With this ascent Jornet repeats the feat of reaching the world’s highest point after having climbed to the summit only six days earlier. On the previous climb, he reached the summit in 26 hours, but he started that one lower down, at the Base Camp at the ancient Rongbuk monastery at 5.100m. The first climb had begun well but he was hampered by stomach problems from 7.500m, which slowed him down considerably and forced him to make repeated stops.   “I didn’t feel great and was moving very slowly. I had to stop every few metres with cramps and vomiting. But I felt ok with the altitude and decided to continue. When I got back down I thought I would like to try another attempt if I felt well enough,” he explained.    The two ascents are part of Kilian’s Summits of My Life project, which has taken Kilian to some of the most iconic mountains across the globe setting records for fastest known ascents. He began in the Mont Blanc range in 2012 and has since climbed in Europe (Mont Blanc & Matterhorn), in North America (Denali) and in South America (Aconcagua). He tried to ascend Everest already in 2016 but then poor weather conditions forced him to abandon his climb. Jornet was accompanied on this Everest expedition by mountain guide and cameraman Sébastien Montaz-Rosset.

 We caught up with Kilian as soon as he returned to Europe and talked a bit about his two Everest summits. “It was really interesting to see the Himalayas and Everest as the mountains in the Alps. In the Base Camp I packed all the gear I needed, a backpack of about seven kilos, and started running towards the night and then kept moving all the night and during the day on the ridge. When I was on the summit it was night again. It was a really good feeling to be on the summit of the world alone,” Kilian says.   Watch a Suunto Movie of Kilian’s amazingly fast ascent from Base Camp to the summit Kilian started the climb at the Base Camp at the ancient Rongbuk monastery at 5.100m. The climb began well but Kilian was hampered by stomach problems from 7.500m, which slowed him down considerably and forced him to make repeated stops. “I didn’t feel great and was moving very slowly. I had to stop every few metres with cramps and vomiting. But I felt ok with the altitude and decided to continue. When I got back down [to Advanced Base Camp] I thought I would like to try another attempt if I felt well enough,” he explained. And Kilian did. Only six days later he summited Everest from the Advanced Base Camp (6.400m). The weather was worse than during his first climb, very windy and snowing at the top. However, the conditions improved throughout the night and he returned to the camp 28 hours 30 minutes after leaving. “I was feeling a little tired from the first climb but it was good to know that it is possible to climb these big mountains on consecutive days, not only as one month projects with one summit per month. It is possible to do many activities in the big mountains. It was really windy and it was snowing on the summit but it was another incredible moment,” Kilian says. The two ascents are part of Kilian’s Summits of My Life project, which has taken him to some of the most iconic mountains across the globe setting records for fastest known ascents. He began in the Mont Blanc range in 2012 and has since climbed in Europe (Mont Blanc & Matterhorn), in North America (Denali) and in South America (Aconcagua). He tried to ascend Everest already in 2016 but then poor weather conditions forced him to abandon his climb.  Kilian was accompanied on this Everest expedition by mountain guide and cameraman Sébastien Montaz-Rosset.

I’ve been to the Himalayas before, but not like this I’ve been running in the Himalayas plenty, but I’ve never done anything quite this: an attempt on Cho Oyu, an 8000m peak and the sixth tallest mountains in the world. We did all the acclimatization at home I was there for less than two weeks – most people take two months to acclimatize. This is very much new-school, fast-and-light alpinism. We did all the acclimatization at home hooked up to a machine that simulated being up at 7500m. People hear we did an expedition, and they think ‘sherpas’ But that’s not how we did it. That’s not how I want to go the mountains, and not how Kilian wants to go to the mountains. There was no pressure This was a trip I did for myself, out of my own pocket – so there was very little pressure to ‘do it for the sponsors’. I wanted to explore for myself and see what was possible for myself. At sea level Kilian is much faster But at altitude we start to even out a little bit more – although he will always be stronger and more technical. We were surprised at how fast we were moving at altitude – about 250m an hour at 7500m. That’s pretty fast. I reach 7500m and 7800m on two different days The first time was a planned acclimatization. The second attempt was a summit bid – it was our last day, and there was a small weather window. But it got late, bad weather started rolling in, and I simply decided to turn around. Kilian and I discussed that he would go on. I had to wait a few hours for him to come down – during that time I regretted a bit the decision to split up. Ueli’s death gave us a big scare We were in Cho Oyu we got the news about Ueli Steck. I didn’t know him personally well, but he was friends with Kilian. He was extreme but he was a hero. His life was an affirmation of everything that is possible. When he died it was hard. Kilian never considered not following through There is a big difference between Ueli’s very technical route and Kilian’s Everest Route. I knew Kilian was in a really good shape and responding well to the altitude. I knew he would be fine on Everest in the right conditions. When he was taking longer than expected I began to worry a bit, as Kilian is usually extremely good at predicting his times – but I was getting updates from Seb Montaz. I don’t want to do Everest I want to go to some high altitude mountains. I really liked it. Mountains are the foundation, racing is just the topping. I love running and skiing, and I’m fascinated with alpinism, but I’m more concerned about the exposure. I don’t like that. I’m a big fan of life. I don’t see myself moving in the kind of terrain that Ueli did, in the way that he did. Even if I attained the technical skills, I don’t think I want to be here. I would like to go back to Mt Blanc Ii have been running up and down many times, but I want to put a record on that one – there’s not so many women doing it. I would like to go back to Cho Oyu to ski, as the winter route looks amazing. Some other bigger peaks as well. But Cho Oyu on skis might be my next dream trip. I am happy Kilian is done I want to keep his passport so that he can’t go anywhere for some time!